Big Hills

Going up a big hill – fully loaded. 

Quite early into my ascent of Col de la Colombière in July this year (see the blog at alps jura 2016), I decided I'd had enough of climbing big hills fully loaded! My long suffering compadre agreed. So I have hung up my panniers on the monster climbs. I  thought I'd share the wee bit of knowledge I have gained and have a compiled a list below - in rank of hardness - of the cols and passes I have knocked up over 10 years of cyclo-touring. Hopefully this list will inspire you to follow my treads.

All the passes below have been done fully loaded; Ventoux and Grand Colombier were done as day rides. These two monsters were not on the way to anywhere while the nineteen other climbs were done en route elsewhere. Further details about these and other routes up the cols can be found at climbbybike.com

Why go up a big hill?

Cols and passes are features of roads that actually go somewhere! If you are touring, these darned things are in the way!
Cols and passes and stand-alone hills are also simply exhilarating experiences: - enduring the slight issues of discomfort on the way up, the sense of achievement at the top, and the heart in mouth adrenalin rush on the way down the other side.

What makes a climb hard? 

A combination of the elevation and length are the obvious and overriding credentials. Long steep climbs extend the discomforts of cycling uphill – heat, flies, backside, hydration and fatigue – and so the degree of determination has to be greater. But, as in the case of the Grand Colombier, within a much shorter ride you may be faced with some short but very steep spells. Had I been loaded up, I would have avoided the route we took or not done the Col at all.

The mid-climb downhill/flat section: 

Whatever these provide in relief from an uphill struggle, they actually mean you are going to have to make up for it – in spades.

Forestation 

This adds another dimension or two. 

Forests make for boring cycling they keep out the view and also keep out an often desperately needed breeze while not necessarily offering any protection from a midday sun. Many cols start in forest before entering a gobsmacking wilderness; some skip the forests – such as the Tende and Lautaret.

Dizzy heights 

The higher you climb the chances of iffy weather increase. This doesn’t mean it has to be snowing; just a few degrees lower and some cloud cover can make a climb very cold all of a sudden. 

Plus there is the reduced amount of oxygen as you move into high altitudes. Anything below 2500m doesn't really bother the scorers too much but above that height one may experience hyper-ventilation and increased cardiac activity. Approaching 2800m and these effects may be more prominent. The long and short of it is that you will have to breathe more quickly to deliver the same amount of oxygen to the system.

And finally...

The lack of known watering holes or foodstops means you are going to have to carry more. The longer the climb, the more water you'll need. 1 litre = 1 kilo; and you could get through three litres in a four hour climb in heat. Throw in three bananas and some energy bars and the like and before you know it you're carrying an extra three or four kilos.

The list...

1.       Bonette

2802m high/1589m climb. Truly a monster, at 24km from Jausiers it rises 1600m or so to a false summit – a loop around the top built to gain an extra 90m in elevation to get the title of highest paved road in Europe. However, it is not the highest pass as the loop doesn’t go anywhere. It is spectacular and bleak with the added thrill of thinning air. There are plenty of oddities to see on the way up – especially the forts and the fish pond. No provisions on the way up or at the top (as of 2008). It is simply the toughest climb I've done.

2.       Ventoux

1912m/1617m 21km from Bedoin 7.6% high 12% this climb has three ascents. The route from Bedoin is the headline act and, boy, is it tough. Starts of nice’n’easy when all the time you know it’s going to get nasty; go around the bend at the end of the phoney flat bit and you are into hot airless forest and nigh on 10% all the way to Chalet Reynard.  The extraordinary exposed finale is less steep but what have you got left?

3.       Madeleine

1993m/1585m 25km from La Léchère.  av 6.2% high 11-12%. 

Underrated stunning toughie. Its ascent possesses a heartbreaking downhill section followed by a steepening finale. Not much in the way of watering holes on the way, or stores at its northern end.  In revisiting this on the Internet I discovered the Col du Chaussy, an alternative to the D213. Great views and worth its high ranking at climbbybike.

4.       Du Colombier

At only 1501m/1205m and 15km long it is not going to be the toughest despite an average of 7.9% and a high of 14% (Anglefort route). Still, it’s nasty - especially the first half where it is consistently 10%+ for over 3km until it joins the road from Culoz. Very like Ventoux as it has three/four ascents of varying difficulty. Not too much traffic as the road is not a pass. Last 3km is strangely easy. The famous Lacets are on the Culoz route.

5.       Tourmalet

2115m/1268 17km up to 10% from the east. More iconic than tough, though it is still tough.  The diehards ignore everything below La Mongie. My ascent was in ropey weather and so I can’t vouch for the scenery. Bad traffic and the avalanche tunnels can get a bit hairy on the narrow road.

6.       Stelvio

2757m/1808m ave 7.4% from North. Gobsmacking wall of hairpins follows a slog up a long breathtaking valley from the North. 48 hairpins in all. Not as hard a climb as you might expect but thinning air adds to the experience. Never gets uber steep but is consistent. From the north can be split into two climbs with an overnight stay in Trafoi. Spectacular on the south side too but not so bleak. Long slog down into Bormio.

7.       Grand St. Bernard

2450m/1752m ave 5.7% 31km from North. A long, long climb that saves the best until last. The road is a busy main road until it splits into the road through the tunnel and the humdinger that takes you over the top. Famous as the Route de Napoleon and as home to the Saint Bernard dogs. Again, this climb can be split as there are many villages and towns in the valley such as Bourg Saint Pierre that has a campsite.

8.       Glandon

1924m/1472m 21k  av 6.9% high 12%

If you were tough as old boots you could do the Madeleine and Glandon in one day. And, like the Madeleine, it has a killer last few km where the 12% faces you like a wall, sort of. Great views and a great, testing ride.

9.       Izoard

2344m/1095m 15.9k from Chateau Queyras. On the D902, Route des Grand Alpes, ave 6.9%.

I am surprised at this mid-table ranking at climbbybike as the last 7km are a relentless 8%, which is quite sapping. Very good on the eye, with big valleys, rocky outcrops and the general alpine vibe. The descent is one of the best with long, safe(ish) stretches of good tarmac meandering over shallow gradients allowing tops speeds of 50mph+, if you are totally bonkers.

10.   Agnel

2744m/1407m 20.5km from Chateau Queyras av 6.6% high 11% 

This is way out on the border with Italy and a hike to get to but worth it, though you will end up in Italy! This is up there at 8th in the top ten of the highest passes in Europe. However four of the seven above it are dead ends and the Bonette, as said, has built an extension. So, after quite justifiable adjustments, it rises to 3rd highest behind the Iserean and Stelvio. And by ‘eck, does it go on. The true climb is from Guillestre - a massive 42 km. Again it has all the elements of a great climb and you can throw in thinning oxygen in too.

11.   Galibier

2646m/1924m 34.9km av 5.5% high 12%. On the face of it, from St Michel, it is the mother of them thar hills but with the descent into Valloire following the Télégraphe, the climb is of two parts. 
2646m/1245km 18.1km from Valloire 6.9% high 12%.

That said, it has all you can ask of a big climb: hairpins, great views, challenging gradients, barren moonscapes, good cafe at the top, and an exhilarating descent. From the north, you will not get the full D902 climb from St. Michel-de-Maurienne as one stat with Strava due to the descent from the Télégraphe into Valloire. The Soulor on the Aubisque has the same intermediate role. As far as I was concerned, the climb was from St Michel, not Valloire.  On the other hand, for loaded touring bikes the Télégraphe/Galibier combo was the closest I am likely to get to two cols in one day! The opportunity to feed and pop into a supermarché lessens the Galibier's sting.

12.   Aubisque

1709m/1247m From the east, two for the price of one with the col de Soulor being thrown in. Overall a very long climb at 30km though, with only 4.9% average and a 9% high, it’s not a tough climb. The views west and north from the Soulor are breathtaking.

13.   Vars

2111m/1111m 19.4km from Guillestre; av 5.5%; high 9%

The fabled D902 again. Quite tough, and necessary to do to get to La Bonette. Occasionally pretty. The ugly Les Claux ski resort reminded me of the equally ugly La Mongie on the Tourmalet, though it does have a cafe. Good downhill and great views going south.

14.   De la Colombière

1613m/1108m not a high col or a long one but at times it is very steep and sapping. Some respite with Le Reposoir but overall it crams a lot into its 16.3km with an average of 6.8% and a high of 12%. Great views.

15.   Petite St. Bernard

2188m/1282m 27.6km from Morgex av 4.6% high 7% 

The stack of hairpins rising above Pre St.Didier are quite a daunting sight if you are ascending from the Aosta Valley. Likewise there are a magnificent set of hairpins as you descend into Bourg Saint Maurice. The heat of the day is interrupted by the glacial waters passing under the occasional bridge.  Despite a height of nearly 2200m and its 27km it is not a monster though the top is quite bleak. 

16.   Lautaret

2058m/1312m west 34km from Le Clappier/Bourg D'Oisans; ave 3.8%; high 7.5% rank 309

This one popped my cherry. Took it from the west. The D1091 is usually busy down the week so the weekend is better but the traffic still is a bind. Good views especially at La Grave. A few tunnels. Of the French Alpine cols over 2000m this is probably one of the easiest, with a great oppurtunity to stop over in La Grave. Sets you up nicely for the Galibier.

17.   de Tende 

   

   
   1870m/1086m ave 5.5% 19.8km from Limone, Italy. Brilliant col way down in the south-eastern corner of the Alps. At 1800 or so metres it doesn’t pack a huge punch but is very pretty. The USP is the descent into France – this is for sturdy bikes due to the unpaved surface and rockfalls of the first few km – expect to walk a wee bit and allow plenty of time to get down this tricky section. Another plus is that the one-lane tunnel much lower down means that for long periods of time there is no traffic behind you as it is stuck at lights on the Italian side of the tunnel.

18.   Télégraphe

1566m/856km North 11.8km av 7.3% high <10% 

This is a bit of an odd col as it forms part of the Col de Galibier in effect.  More D902. Once you reach the top, you do a short descent into Valloire before rejoining the fight and go up the Galibier. This is not a spectacular col but a very pretty one, with a good deal of the climb in forest. The peak, perched on a sheer face, has breathtaking views back across the Arc's valley.

19.   Aravis

1486m/526m 10.5k from St. Jean de Sixt. A beauty; easy on the eye and legs as it is short and barely makes it above 7% from St Jean as it does not rise much more than 500m.

20.   Ornon

1373m/643m 11.1km from D1091 av 5.8% high 7%-ish 

Around the corner from Bourg D’Oisans. If you have never done a col before - this would be a good start.  A straightforward, consistent up-then-down climb.