.
Summer is the time for island hopping in Scotland. There are
plenty of islands and plenty of visitors after wildlife, mountains, whisky, or
simply breathtaking solitude. The whole inventory of rocky, weather-beaten
outcrops is impossible to do all in one sitting unless you’ve got a couple of
months free. The islands are located in several and more manageable groups: The
Shetlands, The Orkneys, The Outer Hebrides, The Inner Hebrides. Then there are
the smaller isles off Oban and those wedged in between fingers of mainland –
such as Arran. On this wee jaunt, I limited myself to Arran, en route to/from
Jura.
 |
| North Arran from Kintyre |
Arran is mountainous in the north, its jagged peaks being
visible from Jura, while the southern half is hilly and afforested. The island
is bike-able in a day, although, as there are plenty of hilly bits, you might
want to use a base camp for adventurous tootling about.
 |
| Lochranza |
Arran is very easy to get to. Forty minutes by train (£7.50
each way) from Glasgow Central gets you to Ardrossan, which is served by two rail stations
and two lines. There are dedicated bike spaces on the Scotrail service but they
are not bookable so it is best to avoid peak times. An hour on a ferry gets you to Brodick (£3.50
each way; bikes go free), pronounced as if with a double ‘d’.
See www.calmac.co.uk/ardrossan-brodick-arran-ferry-summer-timetable.
 |
| west coast |
The choice of road is not difficult as, bar a couple of
interlopers, most notably ‘The String’ across the middle, there is one main
road that circles the island in roughly fifty-five miles. Half of this
mileage will be spent on the flat while the other half is a roller-coaster of
short steep hills of up to 450 feet and 13%, and with one 650 ft climb between the
east coast and Lochranza. The road is quiet but for the eastern section between
Lamlash and Brodick, two of the island’s larger communities. There is also very
little in the way of shops so stock up at Brodick, especially if you are
heading to Lochranza. If you are just passing through, then there is a
30-minute ferry from Lochranza to Claonaig on Kintyre – also a Calmac service –
at £2.80.
Campsites – there are three open to passing trade: Lochranza
£9.00, midgy and prone to water-logging; Brodick, £4 no showers but idyllic
location; Seal Shore, £8, great location and facilities with a basic shop and very low on the
midge activity but some severe dawn chorus barkage from seagulls.
 |
| Ailsa Craig |
 |
| Seal Shore Campsite Kildoman |
I passed a
Caravan Club members-only site and there are plenty of opportunities for wild
camping. The sea shore is your best bet to avoid the midges. Whatever any one
says to you about midges in Scotland it is true and probably worse! You won’t
get a Rapha-Paul Smith face midge net but a midge net is de rigueur – as is any kind
of insect repellent. Long sleeves and
trousis are essential in the evenings and mornings.
 |
| View from Seal Shore |
If you can fit a rod and reel into your kit, there are some
choice spots for shore fishing and sea trout are common and tasty!
